BHerms wrote:
>
>
> I'm also running Crane Time Savers on a 98 FLHT with Crane 300 cam. Love the
> cam but hate the valve train noise. Could the push rods be the problem? I've
> got 30K miles on it with the original lifters and I used the original cam gear.
> Changed the cam and cam bearing at 10K and it's run fine ever since except for
> it being a little too noisey, especially noticable around 2200 - 2500 RPM.
It could just be the nature of the cam, how quickly the cam drops the valves onto
the seats.
Sometimes so hard that the valves bounce once or twice before finally closing.
It could also be an issue of valve seat concentricity. The valve may have to hit
the seat then
shift sideways slightly to close. This is masked well by the stock cam that sets
the valves down
rather gently, but a different cam may bring this out.
You're about due for a set of lifters anyway, pull the heads and freshen up the
seats,
cut the concentric within .001" Not really easy sometimes, but worth it.
> I've
> shortened the upper pushrod tubes after noticing the fat part of the push rods
> were bumping them. I've adjusted the pushrods a little tighter and looser but
> can't get rid of that extra noise.
I use the theory that they should be adjusted like a solid, and the hydraulic
takes up just the slack created as the top end grows (heats up)
I'll extend them until the plunger in the lifter reaches the bottom of it's bore,
then back them off just enough for the pushrod to spin, and another half turn or so
to allow for seat wear.
I've heard that the timesaver locknuts can tap the bottom of the upper tubes.
If the pushrods aren't straight, they can bend and flex a great deal.
I've noticed that a lot of the adjustables have -rolled- threads on the end,
then the threaded area is not very straight.
> HogDR I don't understand what you meant by
> boring the upper tubes to 5/8" they are pretty thin to start with.
> I'd love to hear any ideas you all might have and of course have a drink on me.
> TallBob
I chuck them up in a lathe and run a small boring bar through them,
not really enough to thin out the material, but just enough to open up the area
on the end where the swaged material hangs into the tube.
Standard procedure with the S&S pushrods as they are a bit fatter than stock.
HogDr
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